Finding the Grainline and Why it Matters

I don't sew clothing, but I do make a lot of bags. I make bags for every purpose imaginable. If you sew clothes, curtains or bags, you need to know how important the grainline is. If you are using a woven fabric such as 100% cotton or a woven cotton blend, you need to pay attention to how you are laying your pattern pieces.

Woven fabrics are made up of lengthwise threads, and crosswise threads. It is important to know the difference when you are making something that needs to hang properly or where strength is needed. The best way to find the grainline is by looking at the selvage. The grainline always runs parallel to the selvage. But sometimes you may have a piece of fabric where the selvage has been cut away, or maybe the fabric is an odd shape. Finding the grainline is very simple and I’m going to show you how. You can use the images above for reference.

The crosswise grain has a slight amount of stretch. It’s strong (as far as holding its shape), but not nearly as strong as the grainline, or sometimes called the lengthwise grain.

The lengthwise grain has no stretch at all. This would be the grainline. Can you see why this would be stronger and holding its shape when you are making a purse where it will be holding weighted items? If you are making a purse for example, you'll want the lengthwise grain to be vertical. This way there would be no "give" in the fabric and it will hold its shape. If you are making a matching strap, you definitely want to cut the fabric along the grainline for the length of the strap.

The bias has a lot of stretch. This would be at a 45° angle from your grain lines. When you pull the fabric along the diagonal, you get a lot of stretch. That is why you would cut a bias tape in this direction. The stretch allows you to go around curves easily. 

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